Milan and its Identità n.10

by • 10 February 2014 • culinary trends, food and cultureComments (0)36509

In the last years, in Italy the perception of haute cuisine has changed and the perception of gastronomic congresses has changed too: from corporate events they have turned into social, democratic and cross cultural events. Punctual like a clockwork, in a foggy Sunday morning, Identità Golose opened its doors for its 10th edition, along with the Milan Food & Wine Festival (same for location, more playful mission).
The ritual, had already begun in the previous 48 hours, with a river of likes and hashtags on social networks and the transhumance on high speed trains of journalists, chefs, producers, food bloggers, all helplessly taking part in the gourmet nightlife organized around the congress, in famous bar and restaurants like Rita, Erba Brusca, Alice, Pisacco, Ratanà, Dry Turbigo, Rebelot, Taglio.
A gold rush that has forced the organizers to limit the number of press credits; however, a big success for the italian conference, celebrating its 10th anniversary. Opening Pino Cuttaia. The chef from Licata, Sicily (just a week ago on stage of Madrid Fusion),  had the honor of representing with its dish, “the egg of squid”, this tenth edition title “A voracious intelligence”. And a voracious illusion was also his session, characterized by a play of disguising dishes: a boiled egg which was actually a squid (stuffed with its black), an omelette that was nothing more than fried mantis shrimp. The link between fish and eggs, in this case, is represented by albumins, present in both foods, which allows to play with textures usually associated with egg yolks and egg whites (in Italian haute cuisine we remember the squid mayonnaise of Igles Corelli or the cod mayonnaise of Moreno Cedroni).

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Cuttaia continued with his illusions and disguises: an eggplant was a real parmigiana and his fantasy pizza was cod with tomato sauce; all recipes are filtered through memory, the true leitmotif of the day, central theme in the following lesson of Christian e Manuel Costardi, the two brothers from Vercelli. A desire to go back to childhood in the words of the young chefs, increased by the growth of their professional symbiosis and the birth of the daughter of Christian, has led the two to think over their culinary memories: today they cooked panino con la lingua, a traditional sandwich, an old street food from Piedmont, and a rice dish (the two are specialized in risotti) with milk and pumpkin, first dish ever tasted by baby Manuel, and now the first dish of Christian’s daughter, a generation later.
Apparently nostalgia cannot touch Carlo Cracco, going to open a new bistrot, called Carlo e Camilla, in trendy Navigli area. The celebrity chef presented a dish, rognone (kidneys) cooked in salt, that is a journey back to his professional history, with one of its fetish ingredients (rognone), a traditional cooking technique on a hot salt plate, and a service completed at the table, that overshadows the perfection of mise en place in favor of waiters’ involvement, as a classic service to guéridon.
The first day of Identità Golose was marked also by tributes to Italy by two foreign guests, the Japanese chef Yoshiaki Takazawa and the Spanish star Quique Dacosta; then it was the turn of defending culinary Piedmont memory, by Enrico Crippa; then we have the Mediterranean wellness by Heinz Beck chef of the year according to Identità Golose, close to celebrate the twentieth anniversary of his restaurant, La Pergola of Rome Cavalieri, 3 michelin stars on the marvellous Monte Mario hill.

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